Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Back again!

Wow! It has been such a long time since I posted anything. That is always how it is with blogs though isn't it? Well I am back in Kenya and ready to go. I was surprised to find my parents here since they were not due for another two weeks.

After spending a week in Nairobi, we traveled to Kisumu last Friday. Usually, I take the 30 minute  flight but we needed to get a car to our home in Kisumu so my mom and I road-tripped it out. My dad, whose back does not allow him to sit for a long time, flew and was in Kisumu while my mom and I were still stuck in traffic in Nairobi. Seven hours later my mom and I arrived in Kisumu. Seven hours. I will avoid that drive henceforth.

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Suburban Living

It occurred to me the other day that I have not talked about where I have been living. The great thing about doing research at home is that I get to stay at my parent's house.  The house is about 20 minutes from the center of Kisumu.

Here are some pictures of it (If you want to see the inside, you'll have to come visit me).

A view from the driveway to the front of the house

Closer to the house

A view from the back of the house

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Why have just one?

So I am seeing my time here coming to a close really quickly and as is often the case, I am taking stock of what I have accomplished. In all, not as much as I would have liked research-wise but that is the joy of fieldwork, right?

I just put the MOU in the mail to the University of Nairobi (I am in Kisumu) so hopefully it will be officially signed by the Vice Chancellor there next week. I say hopefully because the Professor who I have been working with had back surgery and has been out for a while I tell you, if it is not one thing, it's another.

In the meantime, I continue to try meeting as many people because I know I am coming back for another stint and I need to lay the foundation for that trip. Sigh.

That said, I have had a wonderful opportunity as I think I have mentioned before, to hang out with family that I never get to see. As sad occasion, a funeral, took me to my paternal grandmother's side of the family's home. I met relatives I had never met before.

It is also on these occasions that you find out interesting things about your family. Turns out my Dad's side of the family is rife with polygamy. My great-grandfather had not one, not even two but THREE wives. Apparently, so did my grandfather. Three, yes three wives. How that escaped me, I do not know. Silpah (pictured below) is the only survivor. As Wasatch Brewery's Polygamy Porter asked "Why have just one?"




Monday, July 9, 2012

Catching Up: Part Deux

So what exactly have you been up to Val since your research has been slow going?

Well, I took a trip to Ethiopia. My dad and I spent three weeks in June hanging out with my mom. She had some time off in the beginning of our visit so we hit the road and went to Adama (aka Nazareth) for the weekend. Adama is about an  hour's drive from the capital city, Addis Ababa. The road is good but the traffic is terrible since all the trucks carrying goods to and from Djibouti use this route. It has been years since I traveled outside the capital so I was pleasantly surprised to find a bustling town.

The rainy season was yet to come so it is dry



Really dry... 

So dry, they keep camels
The 'Rents Relaxing at Sodere, the Hot Springs
Monkeys, monkeys everywhere. It is impossible to have have a picnic. When we were kids, my brother lost his banana (Cliche, I know) to these beasts
The bustling town


Catching up: Part Un

Wow! It has been too long since I have posted and I finally have some time to sit down and write something. You would think that the silence would mean I was busily at work. Busy yes, with research, not as much as I would like.

Let's start with the research update. The MOU mess finally got sorted out and it is, as I write, on a plane somewhere due to arrive in Kisumu on Wednesday. Finally.

The next steps are to get it signed by the Vice Chancellor of the University of Nairobi and then include a copy in my application for a research permit. Humph. I come back next month and I am just getting ready to apply for the research permit.

I am coming to terms with the fact that I will need to come back.

That said, a huge thanks to the U of MN Legal Counsel, particularly Don and Elizabeth, and to Bonnie and Chris at the WRC for their hard work in getting the document to me.

My Office View

This is the view from my office today:


















Saturday, April 21, 2012

Lake Victoria Day 2012

Every year somewhere between the 12th and 14th of April, fishing on the Kenyan side of Lake Victoria is halted to allow time for the fish to breed. This has been done since time immemorial. During this break in fishing, Lake Victoria Day (LVD) is held. What luck that I happened to be here this year because LVD was convened on one of the islands which I probably would have never gone to otherwise.

Getting to Mageta Island is in itself quite the adventure. You have to drive 80 kms (about 50 miles) west of Kisumu to get to a place called Usenge Beach. From Usenge Beach, Mageta Island is a 45 minute ferry ride. My parents, never ones to miss an adventure, tagged along since they too have never been to Mageta. The island is close to the boarder between Kenya and Uganda.
The ferry
In all, there are 7704 people who live on the island and the only access to the mainland is via the ferry or via smaller less lake-worthy (in my opinion) boats. As you can imagine, the people on the island rely on these crafts to bring everything. The ride costs KSH 100 per passenger (about USD 1). When we boarded the ferry which probably takes about 80 passengers total, there were all sorts of things headed there too including sacks of flour and sugar, crates of soda, and building materials. Fishing is the main source of income and I learned that there is some agriculture on other parts of the island.

The ferry stops at three places around the island and we were headed to the third, and final beach(and I use this term loosely because there was not a grain of sand to be seen) which happens to be the most densely populated area on the island. I was immediately struck by how close to each other all the buildings were but I guess that's what happens on an island.

We eventually found our way to the main event which was held in what can be thought of as the main square in the middle of town. It turned out to be a place for island resident to air their grievances in front of the local Chief/Elder and an NGO called Uhai Lake Forum.
The Elder/Chief is the dude in the red hat

As is typical of such events there was some entertainment provided by local school children


I learned a lot of the issues the communities face including access to safe drinking water, access to markets for excess crops they produce, and sanitation challenges. Above all, I learned that the things I consider problems are trivial.

The ferry ride back from the festivities was a lot more wavy since the winds tend to be higher later in the day. I have to say that there is something disconcerting about hearing Celine Dion's "My Heart Will Go on", the Titanic theme song, while the ferry rocking back and forth.

More pictures form the event:
There has to be at least one drum
Taking in the festivities

Lots of dancing
Fishing is the major income earner in this part of the world. Here are some people coming in for the day. Others are mending nets in their boats.
Coming back in after a day of fishing


Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Adventures in Bureaucracy

While the MOU Saga continues (Argh!), I decided to take the opportunity to do some other things I have been meaning to get to. The first is to get a Kenyan ID card. Kenyans get them when they begin voting at 18 and since I left before then, I have never had one (We don't do absentee voting yet). What an adventure it turned out to be.

The country is divided in an array of administrative units and there are Chiefs and Assistant Chiefs that govern certain areas. I began at the Assistant Chief's office. I had to get him to sign a letter explaining why I don't have an ID yet (The letter said I didn't have one because of "Ignorance"). From there I headed to another office to get the form to apply for the ID. Once I filled that out, I then had to get the Chief to sign it (I realized at this late juncture that I could have consulted a cousin of mine who happens to be a Chief. Word is that she is fierce!). Once he signed it, I joined yet another line to have yet another form filled out. Then I needed all my fingerprints taken. Twice. Using the good old-fashioned ink. This step was of course accompanied by another form. By the time I got to the final step, getting my picture taken, it had been four hours since I started the process.

Now, I wait for two months. My goal is to have some pictures posted by then :)

Sunday, March 18, 2012

The Quest Continues...

So I have been here for a month and (almost) a half now and I am still mired in MOU madness. The document has gone back and forth between institutions in the last couple of weeks and I feel like I am playing a game of Broken Telephone (which I just found out also goes by the arguably non-PC Chinese Whispers. Wikipedia says so, therefore it must be true). My version is hopefully relaying accurate information.

Actually, it's more like Battle of The Legal Officers. I assure you, this game will never make it among the Nintendo/Sega (remember those)/X-Box/Your Game Console of Choice games. The problem is that both universities have templates and content requirements for what MOUs look like and surprise, surprise, the two institutions' don't match. I am negotiating the compromise and with the skills I am picking up, could well moonlight as a hostage negotiator.

The document is now back at the University of Nairobi. Stay tuned.

Friday, March 2, 2012

We want pictures! We want pictures!

You would have pictures...if I was doing anything worth taking pictures of. I'm still waiting on the research permit. Looks like it will take even longer that I thought because there needs to be an MOU in place between the University of Minnesota and the University of Nairobi before the permit application can be officially filed. Ugh!

I'm keeping myself busy though. I read articles (I need a literature review fairy!) and I am getting my survey questionnaire and interview questions in order so that once I get the permit, I'll be set to go. In addition, authors of some of the journal articles I have read live here in Kenya so I'm going to take this opportunity to get some face time.

Glamorous life, eh?

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

The Great Research Permit Quest of 2012

So I have to get a research permit. No biggie, I understand that we shouldn't just be left to roam around. What I hate is the process. I am single-handedly killing patches of the Mau Forest. The permitting authority needs two copies of everything and I thought I had  is all when I went to their office today. As Nelson from the Simpsons would say "Ha, Ha." I've learned some valuable lessons along the way:

Lesson #1: Never assume that instructions are complete.
I went to the permitting authority's office last week to talk to a live person about what I needed to submit and was handed a checklist. This list was different from the one on the front page of the application form that I need to fill. Neither the checklist nor the application form mentioned that I had to submit bound copies of my research proposal so when I showed up today, that was one of at least three things that needed to be done which brings us to...

Lesson 2: "Letter" is not the standard paper-size.
When I went to get my proposal bound in a spiral booklet, it looks like one of those Art projects you took home in pre-school. Especially since I had to print the cover page separately here where the standard paper size is A4. This brings us to...

Lesson #3: Always read the application forms before you set off for the field
I knew I needed the permit before I left so I had the foresight to print the forms What I neglected to do was actually go through the forms and see if I needed any signatures. Of course I did. So yours truly was frantically sending e-mails to get some papers signed and e-mailed back. Karlyn. Best. Advisor. Ever.

Lesson #4: Never underestimate the power of a parking stamp.

The  quest continues...



Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Mini-FAQ

1. How do we get a hold of you?
You're in luck! We have e-mail in Africa! (I have been asked whether there is e-mail in Africa). Send messages to my U of MN address.

2. What is the weather like?
Right now it is hot, hot, hot. We are in the 80s F. Boo hoo, Val, Boo hoo.

The First Five Days

Man, did I hit the ground running or what? I have all sorts of people lined up to speak with, meetings to attend and I'm just trying to keep up!

Just kidding, I slept for most of Friday (I got here late Thursday evening) and Saturday. Apparently it takes a day for every hour time difference for your body to fully adjust to the new time zone. Here's to nine days of waking up at 3:00 in the morning and hitting the wall mid-afternoon. I feel like I am getting closer to adjusting and even managed to get some work done on Monday.

A Tale of Two Plane Rides (My Apologies to Dickens)

MSP to AMS
After paying for a sandwich that better have come from France for what I paid at the MSP French Meadow, I settled in for one of my favorite pastimes. People watching. I say, the quality of the experience at the airport is second only to watching people at the Minnesota State Fair. You can always tell the people who just flew in from Hawaii or some other warm climate. They're the people in shorts looking freakishly tan compared to everyone else. As per usual, a kid threw a tantrum of epic proportions and there were some questionable wardrobe choices. I also like to make up stories about people's lives.

After what seemed like 10 security checks (Really, I haven't mysteriously changed into someone else in the ten steps it took to get from that guy to you, Sir) I eventually boarded the plane and much to my delight, I had a whole row of seats to myself. What a joy! Even Boozehound McThomas in the row next to me couldn't ruin it for me. I am a fan of the complementary alcohol but four Heinekens before we are halfway there is going to catch up with you pretty fast.

AMS to NBO
Schipol in Amsterdam is a fantastic airport, I mean the place even has a museum. I also love the efficiency. Rather than having Athens to Zanzibar passengers going through the same security line, each gate has a crew that works with passengers boarding that flight. On this 5 hour stop, I also discovered the Comfort Chairs located on the second level.

I wish those comfort chairs could have boarded the plane with me because this 7 and a half hour flight was packed and the seats were so close to each other that when the person in front of me reclined, I had to as well so my nose wouldn't hit their chair. Should have sprung the extra moolah for the Economy Comfort seating.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

D-Day

The frantic final hours before this trip include:
  • Last of the three Rabies shots
  • US Bank
  • Target
  • One of the U Libraries

Friday, February 3, 2012

F.A.Q.s Part 1 (of Many)

I feel like now that the day is approaching and I am catching up with all my friends once more before I take off, I've had to talk about what it is that I will be doing during my time in Kenya. What a great opportunity to do an FAQs entry.

1. So which program are you in?
I am in Natural Resources Science and Management. That is what the degree will say.

2. Are you at the Humphrey School of Public Affairs?
No. NRSM is housed in the College of Natural Resources Science and Management. It is an interdisciplinary program.

3. What is your research on again?
Short Answer: I am studying local community participation in water development projects in western Kenya.

Longer Answer: I will be learning about how gender and customary laws influence evaluation and monitoring of water projects implemented by non-governmental organizations (NGOs). I am curious how NGOs interact with people in the communities they visit and how they keep track of the effects of their projects on the people in those communities.

Longest Answer: See dissertation.

4. What are customary laws?
They are norms/rules/codes of conduct observed among a group of people. What makes them fascinating is they are typically unwritten but they govern social behavior and sometimes supersede written law.

5. How is it that you get to do research in your home country?
I am a super genius.

6. So you're a super genius, eh?
No. I am very lucky to have fantastic advisors and a fabulous examining committee who have encouraged and given me the freedom to build my curriculum and project from scratch.

7. Does being a woman/Kenyan/someone who hasn't lived in Kenya affect your research?
It can help and hurt depending on the situation.

8. Where will you stay?
When in Nairobi, I'll probably stay with my aunt and her family. When I am in western Kenya, I will be kicking it at my parent's house.

9. When was the last time you were home?
I was there in August 2011 for about five weeks. This will however be the first time I have ever lived in Kenya for that long. Ever. Yes, it is weird.

10. How long will you be gone for?
6 months this time.

11. Do you think you will have to go back?
 That remains to be seen.

12. What do you think is going to be the hardest thing for you?
Learning how to balance field work and family life.

13. How do you get there?
Minneapolis is a Delta hub so I fly from MSP direct to Amsterdam. The flight is seven and a half hours. I am in Amsterdam for five hours. Then it is another seven and half-hour flight to Nairobi.

Friday, January 27, 2012

Valerie Is Exported Part Deux: T-minus 12 days

The time approaches when I will go back to Kenya for the longer, actual data collection phase of my adventure. As I am sure others have felt, there is a mixture of excitement and fear. All of a sudden, there seems to be so much to do and so little time to do it all. I find that it is sometimes hard to shut my brain down when I go to bed because I keep remembering things that I need. It has come to the point where I keep a notebook with me so I can write things down whenever they come to me.

Research-wise, there are questions about what to take and what isn't important. My #1 issue was how to take scientific papers with me so I can continue writing. Enter the Kindle. I can put pdfs on it and thereby minimize the amount of paper I take with me. Thanks Amazon. You will be thanked at my defense. No really.


The next thing is how on earth to pack clothing for 6 months. I've decided to pack about two weeks worth of clothing and go from there. After all, it's not like I can't buy anything I forget to take with me.

Last but not least, are the things I take home as gifts for my peeps. My mother always has a list. My dad always needs a couple of things too. The general rule of thumb in my family has always been that you bring gifts for people from your travels. As such, there are a few relatives to take things to and the struggle is always who makes the list (and who doesn't).

The shopping  and packing frenzy has officially begun!